Ritchey Logic Titanium Crankset Bolts

Purchase Ritchey Logic Titanium Crankset Bolts

Ritchey Logic titanium crank bolts are compatible with all conventional cranksets including Shimano, Campagnolo, and Truvativ. These have a raised edge that help prevent slipping. Compatible with 14mm socket wrench. Made In The USA!

Purchase Ritchey Logic Titanium Crankset Bolts

Other products in the category Small Parts:

Ritchey 1 1/8th Headset Top Cap w/ Star Nut -- Ritchey 1 1/8" Aluminum Top caps include a bolt and Star nut as well as a rubber plug to keep moisture out of your allen bolt. Compatible with all 1 1/8 inch stems and headsets.

Ritchey 1" Titanium Headset Spacer -- Available in 10mm in 1". These headset spacers are just what you need to get your bars and stems higher.

Ritchey SuperLogic Bottom Bracket Spindle -- Compatible with sealed bearing Ritchey WCS and some other square taper bottom brackets manufactured by Tange Japan.

1 1/4" Ritchey Logic Canti-Lever Cable Hanger -- These light weight aluminum cable hangers are compatible with 1 1/4" headsets / fork steer tubes. These keyless cable hangers secure in place with a bolt and drop down to accomodate cable routing.

1 1/8" Ritchey Logic Canti-Lever Cable Hanger -- These light weight aluminum cable hangers are compatible with 1 1/8" THREADED headsets / fork steer tubes. These keyed cable hangers secure in place under the headsets top nut and drop down to accomodate cable routing.

1" Ritchey Logic Canti-Lever Cable Hanger -- These light weight aluminum cable hangers are compatible with 1" THREADED headsets / fork steer tubes. These keyed cable hangers secure in place under the headsets top nut and drop down to accomodate cable routing.

Ritchey Shimano Compatible Freehub Body -- Replace your blown free hub body without rebuilding your rear wheel. Comes with 12mm integrated bolt, compatible with Ritchey hubs and Shimano cassettes. To remove the freehub, you are going to have to remove the cassette,then loosen the set screw spacer nut on the drive side, pop out the axel with a light tap of the mallet, (to the non drive side) then witha 12mm allen, go in from the non drive side and loosen the free hub.